THIS MOD HAS BEEN POSTED FOR GENERAL KNOWLEDGE AND RESEARCH PURPOSES...........
The R/T modification will give the trigger frame 1 shot on the pull and 1 shot on the release of the trigger. Reaching the cap of the board can easily be attained. If you pass the rate of fire the trigger frame will just click on some shots so you would need to practice and get a steady rhythm to avoid this. There are some precautions and can be some possible drawbacks in performing this mod:
1) You would need to always keep the trigger frame mode in semi when turning the R/T switch on. If it's set to full auto it won't stop shooting until you turn the trigger frame off.
2) If the R/T switch is in the 'ON' position when turning the main on/off switch for the e-frame on, it will automatically take a shot. The same thing will 'always' happen if the frame is already turned on when switching to R/T. If you actually did perform this mod you would need to be particularly cautious when activating the switch. There is a potential for error here if you're not careful. You should always keep your marker pointed in a safe direction as a general rule anyways.
Go to Radio Shack and get a small on/off switch(slide switch - #275-409). It's a small 3 prong dual switch. Find/purchase some wire from a telephone cord. It's perfect because it's a very small gauge wire and it will fit in the small holes for the connectors of the switch. You can either use the cutout window for the ESP e-frame or cut a small hole in the solid one for the slide switch. If the switch is in the wrong spot, the grips will not go back on the trigger frame correctly.
Remove the trigger frame, then the grip. Tape the switch on the window with some packing tape or similar to hold it in place while you drill it. It may be somewhat difficult getting it in the right spot because the holes are very close to the edge of the cutout in the plastic window.
Find/purchase two very small screws that will hold the switch in place. After drilling the two small(1/16" used here) holes turn the two screws in the holes to tap them before installing the switch. Be very careful because if the screw is too big for the hole it will crack the plastic.
After installing the switch, if the screws are a bit long, cut them off with a Dremel and cutting disk. You may need a small rag w/water on it to cool the screws down so they won't melt the plastic too much when doing this....it gets very hot so do this slowly. You could just use a file if you don't have a dremel to do this if needed. After this, file the rough edges of the screws down and insert the window in the grip.
Make two wires 5" long and strip about 3/4" off of both ends of each and twist the ends so they will fit through the very small holes of the switch connectors. You may try opening the holes a little by turning an ex-acto #11 blade point in them. Put one wire through the hole in the top prong of the micro-switch and twist it on if you don't remove the micro switch and solder it. I would recommend soldering it though. Twisting it may be somewhat difficult because of the limited space to work in. Next tightly twist the wire around the center prong of the micro-switch. Try using a pair of needle nose pliers to help get it as tight as possible so there will be a decent connection. It would be easier to solder them on but you may not want it to be a perminent connection on either end in case you want to remove it.
Before connecting the other end remove the battery. Next twist one wire to the outside prong on the switch that is already in the window and grip. Then twist the other wire to the center prong on the switch. After that put some cloth electrical tape over the ends because they are very close together and you don't want them to touch and short the connection out. I would even suggest putting a piece in the board just under where the switch will be. Now put a couple of pieces of electrical tape 1/3rd of the length of the wires to hold them together.
Organize the wires in the frame, put the battery back in and test it. Then you can carefully put the grip back on the trigger frame. You need to do a lot of planning before you start this because you need to put the switch in just the right place or it's not going to fit correctly. Think ahead and don't just go into this blindly. The spot that it's in here was the only possible place that I could fit that particular switch in. There are probably all types of different deviations of this as far as switches go so you're really not restricted to this particualr application.
Technical Information
